A Pocket Guide to Kandy & Ella, Two of Sri Lanka’s Favorite Destinations
Kandy and Ella, tucked in Sri Lanka’s lush hills, bring together culture and nature in the best way. Kandy’s all about history and tradition, with the Temple of the Tooth and peaceful Kandy Lake, while the markets sizzle with life and the smell of spices.
Hop on the famous train to Ella, where tea plantations, misty hills, and the stunning Nine Arches Bridge make it feel like a postcard come to life. These two spots offer a laid-back mix of everything that makes Sri Lanka special.
This is the second leg of ourThree-Week Sri Lanka Itinerary. For the rest of our itinerary, check the links below. Come back up here when you’re ready, but finish this first guide first!
the Sri Lanka Series…
CLICK TO JUMP!✷ Everything You Need to Know Before Visiting Sri Lanka
✷ A Pocket Guide to Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle: Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya, and Trincomalee
✷ A Pocket Guide to Sri Lanka’s Southern Coast: Hiriketiya, Ahangama, Galle, and Colombo
As we left the Cultural Triangle behind and made our way down toward the South, the next stops in our itinerary were Kandy, the gateway to Sri Lanka’s Hill Country, and Ella, a tropical postcard town in the middle of Sri Lanka’s lush hills.
Kandy is Sri Lanka’s cultural capital, and it’s a great place to dive into real-life Sri Lankan culture as you wander the streets and markets full of colorful trinkets and spices. And if Kandy’s the culture capital, then Ella is the country’s adventure capital. Ella is all about nature, which you can enjoy through hikes, trails, and waterfalls.
Table of Contents… KANDY
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We planned our trip around Kandy because we wanted to be there for the last two days of the Esala Perahera, a yearly festival that is one of Sri Lanka’s biggest festivities, and one of my favorite things I’ve experienced while traveling.
The Esala Perahera, is a grand annual festival held in Kandy, Sri Lanka, celebrated to honor the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha. Spanning about 10 days in July or August, the festival is known for its vibrant and majestic procession featuring elaborately decorated elephants, traditional dancers, drummers, and fire performers.
The centerpiece of the procession is the main elephant, the island’s oldest tusker adorned with ornamented fabrics and lights, that has the “honor” of carrying a replica of the Sacred Tooth Relic on its back. Each night of the festival showcases different ceremonial rituals, blending ancient Sinhalese and Tamil customs with Buddhist traditions, creating a mesmerizing spectacle of cultural and religious significance.
During this festival, the streets of Kandy are transformed. People flood the streets to watch the processions and join in the general festive ambiance.
While watching the elephants be a part of this was fairly bittersweet, being able to witness an event of such cultural significance in Sri Lanka was truly special. You can watch my photos from last day’s parade here.
Where to Stay…
✷ Settle Inn Lodge / $
We randomly chose this little lodge mainly because of its location. We wanted something that was within walking distance from the Temple of the Tooth Relic (where the parade begins) but that also wasn’t in the middle of chaos. I won’t say that this spot was my favorite stay ever, but it was comfortable and convenient, and incredibly affordable. But the best thing about this place was that it was coincidentally right next to where they were showering the elephants to get them ready for the procession. So for many hours, there was an elephant spa right out our window!
✷ RU Boutique Hotel/ $$
A restored mansion right by the lake where you’ll be able to combine the best of both worlds: the buzz of the center of Kandy, and the tranquility of the hills. The rooms are spacious, with a mix of that cozy, Sri Lankan charm and modern finishings and ammenities.
✷The Elephant Stables / $$$
A beautiful hotel, built in an ancient Colonial-period Bungalow formerly owned by an aristocrat, overlooking Kandy’s lush landscape. Stay here for a luxurious getaway that blends history and elegance where you get to explore the town, and then relax in the infinity pool after. Bliss.
Things to do…
✷ The Kandy Esala Perahera
If you’re visiting in July or August, don’t miss the Esala Perahera. You can find some more tips for visiting during the Perahera on this post I shared on Instagram, and watch the procession through my lens here.
✷ Visit the Temple of the Tooth Relic
This temple is one of the most important religious sites in Sri Lanka, housing a tooth relic believed to be from the Buddha. It’s a major pilgrimage site and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
✷ Explore Kandy’s Central Market and Street Bazaars
Wander through the bustling market areas like the Kandy Central Market, a traditional market where you can shop for spices, clothes, crafts, and souvenirs. This is a great place to shop because as you continue going further down South the island, prices get more on the “touristy” side.
✷ Visit the Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha Statue
This large Buddha statue overlooks Kandy and offers stunning views of the city and surrounding mountains.
✷ Walk around the Lake
The lake, also known as Kandy Bogambara Lake, is a chill place for a stroll. You can walk around the lake, enjoy the views, and visit the small island in the center. At night you can find food stands in some points.
THE KANDY TO ELLA TRAIN RIDE
From Kandy to Ella we traded our tuk-tuk for the famous train ride. Croos Tours offers a service where they pick up your tuk-tuk in Kandy (or wherever you need), and then deliver it back to your post-train ride, so you don’t miss out on this breathtaking train ride.
Because, trust me, it’s 100% worth it. There’s a reason why they call it one of the most beautiful scenic train rides in the world. I made a full guide to this train ride in this post.
ELLA
Arriving in Ella felt like a different world. Not only because the heat had been replaced by chilly weather (Ella is high on the hills of Sri Lanka, so this is the place that you’ll need to pack a sweater or light jacket for) but because the local, hole-in-the wall restaurants had also been replaced by flashier, international restaurants.
Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed Ella. It’s very charming, and the hilly landscapes are stunning. But after spending half of our trip in more local corners, we definitely felt the contrast.
Ella is one of the most famous destinations, so naturally, it’s become one of the most globalized (even food is less spicy in Ella). The town consists of one main strip full of cafes, pizzerias, and all the cool digital nomad hotspots. From there, many little alleyways sprawl into the hills, and that’s where you can find hotels and hostels, many of them with incredible views of the hills. But also smaller, locally-owned little restaurants and shops.
This area is mostly known for the tea plantations (which we chose not to visit, read why here), the Nine Arches Bridge, Adam’s Peak, and Little Adam’s Peak. There’s a lot of hiking and adventure tourism happening around this area. Once you see the views, you’ll see why!
Where to Stay:
DRONE VIDEO BY MENINKETTT✷ Cascade Vally / $
A local homestay, perched on a hill with a view five star resorts would be envious of, for one tiny fraction of the price. Seriously, this place oozed charm. The owners are lovely, and their house is right below, so they’ll be around for anything you need. The terrace is brimming with tropical plants and flowers, the perfect spot to enjoy some Ceylon tea while you admire the view.
✷Barn Hills/ $$
A beautiful and romantic wooden cabin with an incredible view of the Nine Arches Bridge. We stayed here for one night literally to enjoy the view and we loved it. I feel like a scratched record at this point for saying this, but the family who owned it were incredibly sweet!
✷Majentra Ella/ $$$
If you want to splurge on accommodation while in Sri Lanka, Ella is the place to do so, since this area is all about the views. And so is Majentra, offering sweeping views of the landscape from your bed and even the bathtub. It’ll feel like a dream you’ll never want to wake up from!
✷ White Elephant / $
Next time I visit Ella, this is one of the places I'd like to stay. I met this place through the cooking class and loved the vibes and how friendly the staff was! They have a lovely terrace where they serve you breakfast, and if the cooking class was that amazing, I can only imagine what the food here is like!
Things to do…
✷ Climb Adams Peak
Climbing Adam’s Peak is as much about the experience as the destination. Starting in the middle of the night, you join a line of lantern-lit paths winding through forests and endless steps. It’s tough and definitely not for the faint of heart: this climb has over 5,000 steps. But when you finally reach the top, just in time for sunrise, the view is pure magic—layers of misty mountains glowing in golden light that make the climb totally worth it.
✷ Or Little Adam’s Peak
A relatively easy hike that offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding valleys, tea plantations, and mountains.
The trail is fairly easy, and perfectly well marked. It takes 1-2 hours round trip…depending on how much you want to stay up there.
If you climb Little Adam’s Peak and you see this man, do yourself a favor and get some fresh juice from him and enjoy a fun chat!
✷ Visit the Nine Arches Bridge
This iconic bridge has become a postcard of Sri Lanka. Also known as the Bridge in the Sky, this bridge is quite the view, especially when the train swooshes by. It’s a very popular spot for photos, so I’d recommend coming early to beat the crowds. Or you can do what we did and book accommodation with a view of the bridge!
✷ Take a Cooking Class at White Elephant
I loved Sri Lankan food so much, that we decided to join a second cooking class in Ella. And this particular cooking class was recommended by friends we made along the way and I’m so glad we booked it. The staff is amazing and the class was very thorough, teaching us how to make coconut roti from scratch, and many different kinds of traditional curries.
Ps. White Elephant is fully booked, you can also try this one!
bonus!
THE AMBULAWAWA TOWER
I decided to include this tower because it’s the perfect day trip from Kandy.
Just 1.5 hours away, this surreal tower is one Sri Lanka’s most unique sights. Perched on a hill surrounded by greenery, this spiraling tower feels like something out of a fantasy novel, or a Dali painting. Wrapped by a narrow staircase that allows you to climb all the way to the top.
If you don’t like heights, stay on the ground, because the climb is nerve-wracking. Steps are uneven, and there are unexpected gaps between them. And the more you climb, the more the staircase narrows down and the more you have to squeeze to let other thrill-seekers pass.
I only made it halfway up, but my boyfriend did go all the way to the top.
Either way, the views are worth it.
DRONE VIDEO BY @MENINKETTT
🛺 Our next stop? The Southern Coast…
Read the third and last leg of our trip here.
Never, ever travel without Travel Insurance!
While Sri Lanka is pretty safe, travel insurance is a must, no matter your destination. Accidents and incidents can happen anywhere and anytime. Unexpected medical bills, stolen items, missed flights…make sure you and your belongings are protected abroad.
🗺️ Find all the places in this pocket guide in my Sri Lanka map here!
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