Sri Lanka Pocket Guide: Everything You Need to Know Before Visiting the Teardrop of India
Sri Lanka is one of those places that seems to have it all, yet still feels like a bit of a hidden gem. This tear-drop-shaped island, just off the southern tip of India, is an incredible mix of culture, nature, and history that makes it such an electrifying destination. But at the same time, the idyllic getaway to rest, unplug, and pretend you’ve traveled back in time.
On summer 2023, my boyfriend and I road-tripped around Sri Lanka in a Tuk-tuk.
It had been a dream of his for the past five years and finally, 2023 was the year the stars aligned.
Let me begin by telling you how much we fell in love with this island. Sri Lanka is one of those places that seems to have it all, yet still feels like a bit of a hidden gem. This tear-drop shaped island just off the southern tip of India, is an incredible mix of culture, nature, and history that makes it such a vibrant and exciting destination.
Especially if you like traveling a bit off the beaten path. Unlike many other destinations in SouthEast Asia, Sri Lanka is not overrun with tourists, so you can still you get to experience the real vibe of the place, whether you’re wandering through a local market, hiking to a hidden waterfall, or just chilling on a beach with a coconut in hand.
But what I loved the most about this island, as cliche as it may sound, was the people. I had never met such friendly people in my life. Everywhere we went, and especially in the most lost, local corners, people would greet us with a grin, would offer directions (even when hadn’t asked for any), and were just more tan happy to engage in conversation, despite we could barely understand each other.
OUR SRI LANKA ITINERARY
We had 21 days in total, so we traced a route circling the island, starting and ending in Colombo, the capital.
We visited from mid-August to mid-September, so that meant it was Dry Season in the Northern Areas, and Monsoon Season in the South. As we mainly wanted to see the Cultural Triangle, the Elephant Gathering, and the Kandy Esala Perahera festival, we didn’t focus as much on the Southern beaches.
Also because, as cool as the Sri Lankan surf town of the South are, they’re similar vibes to other towns we’ve spent time in in Bali and Mexico. So we chose to focus more on the cultural side of the island and leave more of the beach time for another visit.
These were all the spots in our route:
🛬 Arrival in Colombo
🛺 Anuradhapura / 1 night
🛺Trincomalee / 3 nights
🛺 Sigirya / 1 nights
🛺 Polonnaruwa / 2 nights
🛺 Kandy / 2 nights
🛺 Ella / 3 nights
🛺 Hiriketiya / 1 night
🛺 Ahangama / 4 night
🛺 Galle / 1 night
🛺 Colombo / 1 night
🛺 Negombo / 1 night
🛫 Departure from Colombo
It’s a lot of ground to cover, I know. So to make it easier, I divided our itinerary into three different posts, one for each leg of our trip. Come back here when you’re ready, but first keep reading this guide!
the Sri Lanka Series…
CLICK TO JUMP!The Cultural Triangle: Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya, and Trincomalee
Kandy and Ella, and the Iconic Kandy-Ella Train Ride
The Southern Coast: Hiriketiya, Ahangama, Galle and Colombo
But before you start planning, let’s begin by getting to know a little bit about Sri Lanka…
SRI LANKA 101
the Quick Facts…
WHERE:
Just south of India.
LANGUAGE:
Sinhala & Tamil
CURRENCY:
Sri Lankan Rupee (LKR)
RELIGION:
Hinduism & Buddhism
POPLUATION:
21,949,268
Sri Lanka’s culture is this incredible mix of history, religion, and lively traditions that you can’t help but notice everywhere you go. Buddhism takes center stage, with ancient stupas, serene temples, and rituals like meditation shaping the rhythm of daily life in most areas of the island.
But Hinduism, Islam, and Christianity all play a part in Sri Lanka’s culture adding layers of color through festivals, music, and architecture. Whether it’s the extravagant processions of the Kandy Esala Perahera, or the family feasts of Tamil New Year, there’s always something being celebrated, and you can feel the energy in the air.
Sri Lankans are spirited and festive and some of the warmest, most welcoming folks you’ll ever meet—always ready with a smile and, more often than not, a cup of tea. Family is huge here, and respect for elders is woven into everything. Meals are shared, eaten with your hands, and full of flavor, reminding you how much food connects people. You might be chatting with a tuk-tuk driver or getting invited into someone’s home for a meal, but Sri Lanka is the kind of place where kindness is second nature.
Sri Lanka is still recovering from a fairly recent Civil War and other struggles, so my expectation was for Sri Lankans to be more reserved and closed off to strangers. To my delightful surprise, it was the opposite!
Sri Lanka is also a very safe destination to visit. And let me assure you of this with a story: On our first morning in Sri Lanka, as were arriving, jet-lagged and sleep-deprived we miss-placed an envelope with cash. A few hours later, police had located and safely stored the cash until we were able to pick it up. Police officers were incredibly kind and efficient, and they even continued calling us throughout our trip to ask us if we needed anything.
During our stay, we also heard stories from other travelers about found and retrieved phones and items.
”This is a Buddhist country…” a local hotel owner told us, “…we don’t steal here!”
Reading Recommendation…
The Elephant Complex, by John Gimlette
The Elephant Complex by John Gimlette is such a good read if you want to learn more about Sri Lanka before visiting. Gimlette dives into the island’s history, culture, and even the aftermath of the civil war, all told in an engaging, witty way that keeps it interesting. It’s like exploring the country through a mix of cultural insights, anecdotes, and storytelling.
10 ESSENTIAL THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE GOING TO SRI LANKA
1. Plan your trip around your Bucket List and the Monsoon Seasons…
November through March is the best season for the southern coast, while May - September the eastern coast is at its best, so plan your trip around what you want to do and see. If you want to go surfing on the trendy, Southern beaches, then go between November and March.
On the other hand, if you want to enjoy Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle without any rain, plan your trip between May and September. You can also plan your trip around what you want to see, for example, if you want to see a lot of elephants, plan to visit between June and November, when the elephant gathering takes place.
2. There is more than one airport in Sri Lanka…
Sri Lanka has two main international airports:
➙ Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) - Located near Colombo in Katunayake, this is the country’s primary international gateway. This is the one you’ll most likely be landing at.
➙ Mattala Rajapaksa International Airport (HRI) - Located in Hambantota in the south, this airport serves as an alternative but sees less traffic compared to Bandaranaike.
So to avoid any mishaps, double-check which one you'll be arriving at!
3. You do need a Visa for Sri Lanka…
A 30-day Visa costs around $50 USD and you can apply for it online. And you can extend it up to 6 months. Apply for your visa beforehand here.
4. 90% of the food will be spicy…
Take this from a Mexican: Most of the local food you encounter will be spicy. Obviously, the more local you eat, the spicier it will be. And in more internationalized areas like Ella and the Southern beaches, spiciness is a bit diluted.
It’s not an unbearable kind of spiciness though, but after a few days, you might need to take a break. Pack charcoal tablets, probiotics, or these capsules to aid your tummy just in case.
5. Sri Lanka uses Sri Lankan Rupees (LKR) and you’ll need cash!
Even when booked via Booking.com, many hotels and homestays prefer cash. So make sure you have cash at the ready. I rarely recommend an airport money exchange counter, but you can get a very good exchange rate at the airport at People’s Bank.
6. Dress modestly for temples…
Sri Lanka is full of temples, so make sure you dress modestly to visit them — you will need to cover your knees and shoulders! Keep a sarong in your backpack always just in case. In some temples, there will be sarongs available to borrow or rent at the entrance, but not in all of them, keep one with you just in case.
7. It’s Easy and Affordable to get Internet Data!
SIM cards are cheap and widely available. Providers like Dialog or Mobitel offer affordable data plans, which are handy for navigation and staying connected. We got our at the airport upon arrival and we only topped off once during the middle of our trip in Kandy.
8. Follow Local Etiquette…
A slight head nod or bow is a polite way to show respect. Avoid touching people’s heads or pointing with your finger—it’s considered rude. Learning a few Sinhala or Tamil phrases, like “Ayubowan” (hello), can also go a long way!
9. Tipping is not Mandatory, but Appreciated:
While not mandatory, tipping is customary in Sri Lanka. Leave around 10% in restaurants, and tip tuk-tuk drivers, hotel staff, and guides a small amount for good service.
10. Don’t Drink the Tap Water!
Stick to bottled or filtered water for drinking and brushing your teeth. Many hotels and restaurants provide filtered water, so bring a reusable bottle to refill when and where you can!
SHOULD I RENT A TUK-TUK?
That depends. To be honest, renting a tuk-tuk to drive as much as we did is not something I would’ve done if I were traveling solo. But my boyfriend is a bit of a maverick when it comes to adventure, so he was more than happy to drive. Actually, the tuk-tuk was the whole point of our trip. And we saw many couples and small groups of friends traveling by tuk-tuk.
If that’s the case for you, then I’d definitely recommend exploring by tuk-tuk. It gives you absolute freedom to stop anywhere, anytime. See some snacks for the road? Just pull over! A colorful Hindu temple ahead? Just pull over!
Our beloved Tuk-tuk, which we nicknamed Sandokan, after Emilio Salgari's stories.
📷 Love my photos? Add a nostalgic touch to your photos with my Travel Preset Pack…inspired by some of my favorite destinations around the world!
For me, the whole tuk-tuk experience was one of my favorite parts of our trip, it’s truly the way to see the island and local life closely.
We rented our Tuk-Tuk from Croos Tours and I cannot rave about these guys enough. Especially about Amila, the owner, who personally picked us up and was super helpful the whole time we where there.
We paid around $10 dollars a day, for 21 days.
You can find everything you need to know about renting a tuk-tuk on this Instagram Reel.
We flew to Bandaranayake Airport Colombo where Amila picked us up, and after a very thorough tuk-tuk lesson, we left him behind and embarked on our first, and longest Tuk-tuk journey of the whole trip.
🛺 Our first stop? Anuradhapura and Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle.
Read about the first leg of our trip here!
Never, ever travel without Travel Insurance!
While Sri Lanka is pretty safe, travel insurance is a must, no matter your destination. Accidents and incidents can happen anywhere and anytime. Unexpected medical bills, stolen items, missed flights…make sure you and your belongings are protected abroad.
🗺️ Find all the places in this pocket guide in my Sri Lanka map here!
Some of the links in this blog are affiliate links. If you purchase something using these links, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. By using these affiliate links, you’re directly supporting my work and my ability to continue creating for you! ♥ love, Emilia
